21.4.2007

If you go: Learning a little Bulgarian helps

A travel bargain, Bulgaria is a treat for those who don't need their travel simple or easy. Bulgaria is a bargain for the traveler. We had appetizers of white and yellow Bulgarian cheese with three kinds of thinly sliced sausages, tomato and cucumber salads, and then a steaming pot of beef, cheese and egg for about $15 -- including wine. A dry paprika spice mix is served with crusty bread for dipping. The fare reminded me of Greek food with plenty of German sausages thrown in. Portions tend to be large, and restaurants are required by law to list the weight of each course on the menu. Rakia, a traditional brandy, is often drunk with salad. Good espresso is available everywhere. Even the machines in the subway dispense a decent cup for about a quarter.

Try to talk the talk

The Cyrillic alphabet can be the biggest challenge to getting around in Bulgaria. On the larger highways, you'll see signs that use Roman letters under the Cyrillic, but city street signs in Sofia and around the country are in Cyrillic only.
Learning at least a little of the alphabet can help a lot, even if it's just to pick out words like restaurant (PECTOPAHT).
Many people in the larger cities speak at least some English, enough to help us find our way. One afternoon in Sofia, I went to the market by myself and easily managed to buy a hair dryer, sujuk (a flat, tasty sausage) and English map of Bulgaria.
No one expects you to know Bulgarian, and if you learn a few words, it is fun to watch how surprised and pleased people are. Da (yes), ne (no), molya (please), and dobré (good, OK, sure) go a long way. Many Bulgarians also use merci for thank you and ciao for goodbye.
I spent three days trying to learn to say blogodarya (thank you). Angela Spassova, one of the translators, tried to make me feel better about my struggles: "It's the most difficult word in Bulgarian. Children here can't say it correctly until they're 3 or 4 years old."

Use cash

Between our visit last year and the year before, there was one small but important change for tourism: More stores and restaurants accept credit cards. The State Department and guide books on the country warn of widespread corruption. That corruption, influenced by organized crime, has made local shopkeepers hesitant to use credit. Still, judicial reforms seem to be slowly having an impact. Plan to use cash at most places, though.

Getting around

Private bus lines run to most tourist areas of the country (busbulgaria.com), and they are probably the most comfortable way to get around and usually are reasonably priced. The state railway system is extensive, but not necessarily fast or clean. I'm told you want to avoid the toilets onboard at all costs. The website is www.bdz.bg. Click on EN for an English version.

Lodging

When looking for places to stay, keep in mind that there may be a two-tier pricing system: one for locals, the other for tourists. While technically illegal, several places where we stayed still used it. There is no centralized bed-and-breakfast or hostel bureau. Searching the Web for hotels, resorts or rooms for rent in the individual towns may be your best bet.

Sources

One of the best travel resources is "The Insider's Guide to Sofia and Beyond ... " published by two women who run the Sofia Echo, an English-language newspaper. You'll have to look for it once you get there. We picked up a copy at the hotel gift shop. They publish a limited version on their website, www.sofiaecho.com. Look for "Sofia Guide" at the bottom of the screen.

Other useful sites

• All Bulgaria Virtual Guide: www.abvg.net/

• State Department information on Bulgaria: www.state.gov/p/eur/ci/bu/

• Bulgarian Focus: www. bgfocus.com/travel.htm

• Visit to Bulgaria: get.info. bg/visit

• Bulgarian travel guide: www.visittobulgaria.com/visit.


Last update: April 20, 2007 – 11:43 PM
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